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Day by Day Blog

Week One
June 26, 2006

Week Two
July 3, 2006

Week Three
July 10, 2006

Week Four
July 17, 2006

Week Five
July 24, 2006

Week Six
July 31, 2006

 

 


 

Week One - June 26, 2006

Fig. 1, Map of the Peloponnesos and southern Greece showing the location of Mt. Lykaion.

Students and staff arrived in Athens on Monday June 26 and traveled to the site in caravan style from the airport in two vans, a trip of 3.5 hours.  The sanctuary is located deep in the heart of ancient Arcadia in the Peloponnesos, high in the mountains.  (see map; fig. 1). The nearest town is Megalopolis, about a 30 minute drive to the east down the mountain.  We live in two neighboring villages on the eastern slope of Mt. Lykaion, Ano Karyes (fig. 2) which means ‘upper walnuts” and Xastanochoroi which means “chestnut town”.  Needless to say the slopes are covered with wonderful trees.

The staff and students come from Penn, the University of Arizona as well as from several other colleges and universities and represent a number of fields including anthropology, archaeology, Classical Studies and architecture.  The Co-Directors of the project include Dr. Anastasia Panagiotopoulou, Ephor of Antiquities of the 5th Ephorate of Prehistoric and Classical Antiquties in Sparta, Dr. Mary Voyatzis, Chair of the Classics Department of the University of Arizona and myself.  The project has grown out of my research at the site beginning in the 1970’s when I worked there as a part of my doctoral dissertation work.  I conducted a topographical and architectural survey at the site in 1996 together with a number of Penn students.  Our current project is a full collaboration with our Greek colleagues from the 5th Ephorate of Prehistoric and Classical Antiquities in Sparta and we are pleased to have representatives of the Greek Archaeological Service among our team. We are a group of approximately 20 (which will grow to 25 later in the season) divided among the two villages.  We eat breakfast separately but lunch and dinner together. The villages are very small, the population of Ano Karyes is 23 and Xastanochoroi about 10. We come close to doubling the population of both.

Fig. 2, Map of the Peloponnesos and southern Greece showing the location of Mt. Lykaion. Click map for larger image

Our work permit for excavation and survey is issued during the course of the week allowing us to plan to begin work on Monday July 3.  We spend the remainder of the week devoted to introduction, orientation and organization of the staff and students to the site, with specific tasks relating to the design of the excavation database as well as discussion of field methodology. Our first week is punctuated by the presence of Mark Davison and Danae Whipp from the University of Oregon. Mark is working on the management of the cultural landscape in and around the Sanctuary of Zeus and including the project proposal for the creation of a national park in the area.  Last June 1, 2005 I presented a talk at the War Museum in Athens where I proposed the creation of a national (archaeological) park to include almost 300 square kilometers of land in and around the sanctuary (fig. 3).

Our Sunday excursion is a walk from Mt. Lykaion to Bassai and the fifth century Temple of Apollo Epikourios.  It is a walk of 8.29 miles and we cover the distance in about 2.75 hours.

~DGR

Fig. 3, View of the village of Ano Karyes on the slopes of Mt. Lykaion


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Week Two - July 3, 2006

Fig. 1, Opening levels at Trench A. Left to right: Heather Kelly, Jeffery Spier, Jacob Spier, Alissa Stoimenoff, Mary Voyatzis, Monique Kornell

Our work commenced on Monday July 3, including excavation, architectural studies and topographical survey.  We immediately opened two trenches in the area of the southern hippodrome.  This structure, the only example in the entire Greek world that can be visualized and measured, is characterized in the modern day as a relatively flat agricultural plateau with a series of farming terraces.  The overall measurements of the area are approximately 320 m. long by 120 m. wide.  We are interested in learning more about the nature of the construction and design of the structure as well as details with respect to its construction and its dates of use.  Many Roman circuses have been excavated and studied all over the Roman world but this is the first Greek hippodrome to undergo serious excavation and study.

We are digging in the southeast region of the structure as well as on a nearby embankment on the southwestern edge of the hippodrome.  Each trench has a supervisor, who is an experienced excavator, with a student assistant and a Greek workman from the Greek Archaeological Service.  Our colleague and Co-Director Dr. Anastasia Panagiotopoulou who has been the Ephor of Antiqutities of the 5th Ephorate of Prehistoric and Classical Antiquities has sent a representative to work with us for the five weeks of work, Angelike Tsingkou.  During the course of the week we are able to open a third trench at the southern aspect of the hippodrome.


Fig. 2, Trench B at opening levels.  Left to right: Dylan Bloy, workman, Sarah Ward, Jacob Spier, Angelike Tsingkou

We have four architects from the School of Design at Penn who are continuing from last summer their work on the 67 m. long stoa that is located to the south of the hippodrome that was partially excavated by K. Kourouniotes in the early 20th century.  The architects are creating the first actual-state drawing of the building by means of making measured hand drawings of each block.  The topographical survey team has previously surveyed the exact location of each visible block of the stoa.  The architects are making both plan and elevation drawings of stoa.


Fig. 3, Trench C at opening levels; left to right, Terri Moreno, Alexis Belis, Angelike Tsingkou and workman

Our daily schedule runs something like this:  We eat breakfast at 6:15 am.  Those living in Ano Karyes eat in what we call the Upper Dining Palace.  Those who live in Xastanochoroi eat in the ‘Lower Dining Palace.’ We leave for the site in vans at approximately 6:45 and arrive at 7 am when work begins.  We work through the morning with one or two cookie breaks until approximately 1:30 when we pack up and go back to Ano Karyes where we all eat together in the Upper Dining Palace.  Each of us takes turns serving on the breakfast and lunch committees to prepare and clean up the meals.  After lunch we have approximately 1 hour to rest before reconvening in the lab (the Cultural Center of the village) for afternoon indoor work. The lab is the place where each group of the project works indoors and has their computer or computers and work space.  The architects, the surveyors, the excavators as well as the museum personnel, those who catalogue the finds, wash the pottery and organize the baskets of pottery.

Fig. 4, John Lee drawing in the block field of the Greek stoa

At times the architects and sometimes the surveyors also spend the afternoon hours going back up to the site for some additional work. In the late afternoon, every other day or so, a trip to Megalopolis to pick up supplies, food, as well as personal items.

We eat most of our meals in the village and we have a wonderful cook, Mrs. Vasso, who prepares them for us.  A few days of the week we make the trip to Megalopolis for dinner to one of a fairly limited number of restaurants in the area.  We try to get back as early as possible from these trips, eating in the village is far simpler and provides for a much earlier evening.

Fig. 5, left to right, Ximena Valle. Alexis Belis, Alissa Stoimenoff, Dylan Bloy, Susan Mentzer

Our excursion on Sunday July 9 was to Olympia where we spent most of the day.  We broke up into smaller groups and had several discussions about various aspects of the Sanctuary of Zeus (fig. 5).


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Week Three - July 10, 2006

Fig. 1, Left to right: Alexis Belis, Alissa Stoimenoff and Heather Kelly bailing out Trench A

We have had a good deal of rain this week, four afternoons out of five creating some serious problems for us since the trenches have been flooded on several occasions, substantially delaying our work.  We have learned the skills of bailing the trenches and being patient while the trenches dry out (fig. 1).  We have also had to start new areas of some of the trenches since the time needed to fully dry the trenches is long. Thus far in the summer, Greece has been unusually cool and wet and we are told that this is unusual.  I have been coming to Greece for over 30 years and I do not remember a July with this much rain.  One night, driving back to Ano Karyes from Megalopolis after dinner, we were witness to an absolutely spectacular display of lightening that must have been to the west of Mt. Lykaion.  From our vantage point on the road from Megalopolis driving west, it appeared that the lightening, characterized by huge zig zag bolts and several different colors, red, orange, blue, was above Mt. Lykaion and we could only imagine that Zeus was active and probably perturbed that evening. Imagine what the ancient Greeks would have thought if they had seen an event such as this!

Fig. 2, Tom Fenn discussing the topographical survey to staff and students in the Cultural Center

The topographical survey under the direction of Tom Fenn of the University of Arizona has commenced and is undertaking trench support as well as the continuation of a systematic survey of all visible architectural blocks at the site. His team includes Nick Kendall and Christian Teuchtler of the University of Pennsylvania and Susan Mentzer of the University of Arizona (fig. 2). The topographical survey team works in connection with the architectural team under the direction of Pam Jordan of the University of Pennsylvania. The architects (Pam Jordan, Miranda Gardiner, John Lee and Ximena Valle) are drawing every architectural block by hand and creating the first ever actual-state plans of the site (fig. 3).  All the students are working hard and are contributing substantially to the success of the project.

Fig. 3,  Architects at work in the field below the stoa: Left to right, Pam Jordan, Ximena Valle, John Lee

Those of us who live in Ano Karyes live in rooms in local houses.  We are spread through the village and come together for work in the Cultural Center which is our lab as well as for meals in the Dining Palace. We have bought a new refrigerator for the dining room, a gift from the project to the Village of Ano Karyes, since this dining room is used for various local events during the year and we depend heavily on the refrigerator during our summer months in residence.  Those of the group living in Xastanochoroi live in a converted school house, now a ‘xenona’ or hotel (fig. 4 ).

Fig. 4,  Left to right: Tom Fenn, John Lee, Ximena Valle, Miranda Gardiner, Susan Mentzer standing in front of the xenona

At the end of the week is our long weekend, where we allow the students to leave the project on Friday evening in order to have two nights away where they can go where they want.  Some come with me to Athens to catch boats to go to various islands, and others go to Nauplia in the Argolid.  I spend some of the long weekend at the library of the American School of Classical Studies in Athens.

~DGR



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